The third Quick and Dirty painting tutorial created by the Agent of Ping. In this Guide the Agent shows us how to paint 15mm Terminator miniatures in a step-by-step 8 page PDF miniature painting tutorial. The miniatures used in this guide are Pendraken 15mm figures.
Click this link to download the PDF File:
Terminator Quick and Dirty Painting Guide (647)
The first of a growing selection of Quick and Dirty painting tutorials created by the Agent of Ping. In this Guide the Agent shows us how to paint Toy Soldiers in a step-by-step 10 page PDF miniature painting tutorial. The miniatures used in this guide are Revell’s WWII US Infantry.
Click this link to download the PDF File:
Toy Soldier Quick and Dirty Painting Guide (2237)
Here is a quick guide to painting jewels, lasers and cockpits on miniature figures.
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Theory:
Use a 0 brush. If you go smaller, the paint can dry out. 0 can be made into a very fine point if you take care.
When dealing with a very small area I find that it is really important that you mix your paint with water in a separate pallet (I use the plastic from an old blister to mix). Don’t worry if your first coat of colour looks a bit washy, go over it again. If you put the paint on thick it will clog and will ruin the look of such a small area.
Remember blend lighter shades toward the bottom and leave the dark area at the top. You could spend a lot of time thinking about the way light shines off glass or thicker jewels, but the best bet is to remember dark areas at the top.
The results will not always look “realistic” - but I think it looks interesting, which is OK for me.
Process:
1) Paint the area black.
2) Pick a colour, Red (NB: highlight yellow with red), Green or Blue works best for jewels, cockpits, laser optics and lights. But go with anything if you like.
3) Paint three quarters of the area either a very dark shade of your chosen color or a mix of the base color with black. If you are really careful and have a steady hand you should leave a tiny strip of black at the bottom of the area.
4) Remember leave the top quarter of the area black.
5) Now take the base color neat and paint the bottom half of the area.
6) Mix the base color with white and paint the bottom left quarter of the area.
7) Now you need a very steady hand. Mix more white into the base shade and paint a very tiny strip of this color in the very bottom left corner of the area.
The final touch is a single tiny white dot placed where the base shade meets the black toward the top of the area.
To view using this method in action have a look at the jewel cockpit video, available for free download here: Video guide to painting jewels and cockpits.
Just spent some time reviewing how I base figures and have recorded the following method:
1/ Mount figure on cleaned base with superglue (Fill in gaps around base and figure feet with Green Stuff or normal tile grout).
2/ Paint neat PVA “White Wood” Glue onto base (avoiding contact with figure feet or legs).
3/ Stick unpainted figure and base into pot of fine sand. Fine coral sand is the best for texture (shake off, leaving layer of sand)
4/ Allow to Dry = 1 to 2 hours or shorter under lamp.
5/ Use superglue to Stick on a couple of tiny stones as features (let it dry)
6/ Paint on very water thinned PVA “White Glue.” (This will seal the existing sand and rocks into a “rock hard layer” which will not crumble. This is so important to me, I really do not like flock or sand falling off a complete figure.
7/ Undercoat entire figure and base.
When figure is painted complete base:
1/ Paint base with Games Workshop Commando Khaki.
2/ Dry Brush with acrylic Buff Titanium (or just buff - a light sandy color).
3/ Wash tiny amounts of water thinned Games Workshop brown ink onto the odd spot area. Make sure it really is water thinned.
4/ Dab on a couple of small dots of super glue.
5/ Pop figure into pot of Static Grass, pull it out and “Blow Hard”! - Do not suck or you will swallow the grass.
6/ Static grass should stand up to attention and dry in place on the superglue.
7/ Finish off by painting the edge of the figure in Games Workshop Scorched Brown.
Finished!
Had some fun playing Wings of War with miniatures from the first 12 planes produced by Nexus. The detail on the aircraft was excellent and using models, rather than car, certainly adds to the mobile game. I took a couple of photos, which can be viewed here: Wings of War Gallery
The Agent of Ping has pulled together a new set of articles for CARPS which include resources for 6mm Hordes of the Things (HOTT) wargames and a miniature painting guide for the little 6mm figures. Have a look at the articles here: 6mm HOTT
This week we played a Killzone (wargame by Nick Lund) tabletop wargame in 15mm using some Ainsty Downbelow terrain. The game was based on Mars and we used some Infected human types on a Martian research base as foes for the military sqauds arriving on the planet.
I have created a short background and rules for use of the Infected in Killzone. You can download the A5 PDF of Infected human details here:
Killzone Infected Wargame Statistics (401)
External Links:
Short web comic with photos of the action from the game version of our game session.
Rules Download and much more for Killzone by Nick Lund on the excellent Gisby website.
I have pulled together a selection of photos from the GW (Games Workshop) Battlecars range. Battlecars is a tabletop board game which can be played with 6mm scale miniatures, which are sadly no longer produced by Games Workshop. It was an 80’s classic game from Ian Livingstone and has stood up to the test of time. The models can be picked up on ebay at over £1 a model and often fetch a lot more, I spotted one auction at around $30 for only 5 of the tiny cars. Big money for the size of each 6mm model! You can also usually find the rules on ebay which can cost up to £40.
Games Workshop also produced a car game called Dark Future which was released with plastic cars in Matchbox scale (20mm). Dark Future was based on a track rather than a free-form city area used in Battlecars. I prefer the smaller scale and mechanics of Battlecars but Dark Future was a fun game to play and allowed for more detail of weapons on the cars.
There are alternatives to using the sweet little 6mm cars and you can use Micromachines, Hotwheels and Matchbox cars. This will require you to scale up the game board which would be easy to do with a few bits of cardboard and a steady hand. Battlecars had an expansion called Battlebikes and some of these are pictured in the gallery images. The trucks were released as models but no rules where ever put together for them, which is something our group in Crawley are now working on and we have the prototype rules ready for testing.
The game itself is great fun with simple rules for the use of a mix of weapons and templates to cover your damage and the location of ammo. Ramming is great fun and a well played game can lead you into some fun scenes of auto-carnage. You can read about the board game in detail here Battlecars at Boardgamegeek .
To view the full collection of painted models in full painted colour click here: Gallery of Battlecars
One of our local gamers Kevin has pulled together a quick reference sheet for a Necromunda ganger squad in Excel. You can easily update cells with WS (Weapon Skill) and all other game stats. Please feel free to download a copy and use for your house gang. File is a Zip file containing an XLS sheet.
Download: Necromunda Gang XLS Sheet (594)
I have recently finished painting a Hasslefree 28mm Miniature called Sebastian. I like his old stance which is stooped and makes for an interesting character. I am currently using him as a Paladin figure in a D&D game and he matches my 55 year old character well. The figure itself was very clean and needed only very minor work to clip and sand off any extra bits of flash.
I started with a base of black undercoat and then used new Games Workshop foundation paints for the initial colour layers. The sqaure base is a metal one from Freebooter and the Shield is from a Confrontation set which I added to match my D&D character who uses a shield. I mounted Sebastian in the metal base with Green Stuff and used sand to texture the base before painting.
The armor is painted to look old in grey and I rushed it a bit so the result is not exactly a “fine blend”. It looks good enough to game with and I finished the model with an enamel gloss varnish followed by a matte dull coat of varnish.
Follow this link to view more close up photos.
You can find the Sebastian Knight figure to purchase on the Hasslefree web site.